How to Shape Your Brows: The Ultimate Brow Guide | bluemercury

Bold brows are in. Gone are the 90’s pencil thin arches and here to stay are full, bushy brows. It doesn’t take a lot of effort to maximize your brow potential, but the payoff is huge. Well-groomed brows add extra definition to your facial features and create a more symmetrical appearance. With that in mind, we put together our expert guide for shaping, filling and choosing the best brow products.


STEP 1: Grow

These days it's better to have more hair, not less. Let your brows grow out for six weeks so they can return to their natural shape. If you can’t wait that long, try a hair-growth serum to speed up the process.


STEP 2: Shape

Now that you’ve let your brows grow back to their full potential, it’s time to give them some shape. To find where your eyebrows should start, hold your eyeshadow pencil vertically from the middle of your nostril up through the outer corner of your eye—where it hits your brow is where your start should be. Repeat the same process through the outer corner of your eye to find where your brow should end. Your arch is where the pencil lines up from the middle of your nostril through the outside of your pupil.


How to Identify the right Brow Shape for You

We recommend avoiding magnifying mirrors and tweezing in natural light to ensure you don’t over-pluck. Tweeze the hairs that outside of your natural brow line and target any strays underneath your natural arch. Leave baby hairs that do fall within your natural brow line intact, as they will help you build a bolder look. After you're done plucking, comb your brows upwards and trim any long strands that are outside of your desired shape. Apply a soothing balm to help calm irritated skin caused by tweezing.

Laura Mercier TweezersBobbi Brown Extra Soothing Balm


STEP 3: Fill Your Brows

Choosing the right shade is crucial for achieving your best brow. In general, choose a color one shade lighter than your natural brow hair. This allows you to build up the product gradually rather than going too dark too fast. Here are our picks by brow color:


Laura Mercier Eye Brow PencilBobbi Brown Natural Brow ShaperLune+Aster One-Step Brow

Hourglass Arch Brow Sculpting PencilYves Saint Laurent Dessin des Sourcils Brow PencilBy Terry Eyebrow Mascara



You also have the option to choose your brow tools based on your desired finish—bold versus natural for example. No matter what, remember to follow your natural brow growth pattern, rather than forcing brows into a harsh specific shape. Here’s a breakdown of the options:

Tool: Brow Pencil - best for filling in sparse patches

Brow pencils are great for feathering in sparse spots to create a fuller brow. Choose a pencil with a very small tip—this will allow you to make small strokes that will actually look like tiny brow hairs. Start by building a base over the entire brow with very light strokes, then begin drawing darker, more defined strokes as you go. Finish with a clear brow gel or wax to set your brow makeup and their shape throughout the day.

Bobbi Brown Defined Long Wear Brow PencilNARS Brow Perfector

Tool: Brow Gel - best for adding natural definition

If you have great brows already, brow gel will help you turn up the volume. Use the wand to brush the gel onto the eyebrows with short and quick stokes. Move along the natural arch in upward strokes at first and then outward movements as you work your way closer to the tail. This will define your natural brow while helping to keep unruly hairs in place all day long.

Trish McEvoy Brow Mascara Long WearChantecaille Full Brow Perfecting Gel

Tool: Cream / Wax - best for dialing up the drama

Tinted cream and wax formulas create a bolder brow. Make sure to use a brow brush for application to allow for small precise strokes. Be sure to use a spoolie to blend everything and set the look with a clear gel.

NARS Brow Defining CreamTom Ford Brow Sculpting Kit